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Haastyle Tips & Lethal Tactics - Face Paint: For Purpose or Flash?

1/29/2014

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Since the day that I first stepped in the woods to pursue whitetail and turkeys, I have been using face paint.  However, the concept of putting greasy, colored ink on your face has been, for the most part, lost in today's outdoor industry.  Many television shows display paint on their face for function, but also to look "cool" to their viewers.  I am here to educate the individuals that have followed in these footsteps about the real purpose of face paint, and to show that that design you are putting on your face should only be used to help you become hidden to your game.

The notion of putting “paint” on a hunter’s face did not originate in the outdoor industry. The method of marking your face with paint actually came from our early ancestors.  Our ancestors used natural elements such as mud, juice from berries, and general plant tissues to help camouflage themselves from their prey. The use of these items aids in breaking up the solid pattern of our unique faces amongst the foliage, as well as removes the glare that our naturally oily skins produce on sunny days.


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As the hunting industry has grown in popularity, I have noticed a significant change in the reasoning behind the use of face paint. This change has evolved over the years from zero face coverage to the use of face masks, to the present day where we see face paint as being the primary face concealment tool in the field. This is amazing, given that I have only been hunting for 16 + years, and have seen such a drastic change. Unfortunately, the translation has been lost for many hunters as to why we make black, green and brown streaks on our faces while hunting. Unlike our early ancestors or even most of our hunting mentors, we are beginning to forget some of the “basics.” Much of this can be attributed to the popularity of hunting television, and the tactics used to broaden the brands of these shows. young hunters look up to them as examples of how to be better hunters in the woods, and sadly the use of face paint is widely looked at as a flaunting tool rather than a valuable hunting tool.

I remember getting my first bow at the age of eleven, and having my dad tell me to go shoot while wearing the gear that I would be hunting in. This concept was an eye-opener for a young hunter like myself. Through practice I learned that a face mask got in the way of my anchor point while practicing. The extra fabric between the corner of my mouth and the string of my bow was enough to reduce my accuracy. Because of this simple discovery , my dad got me my first container of face paint. Having just paint on my face not only helped to break up the solid peach color of my face, but it also helped me maintain a high level of accuracy when out in the field. As I have grown and learned more about both hunting and the hunting industry, I too have fallen for this misinformed perception of face paint at times. It was only through research and my own observations that I have realized the true purpose and potential of face paint over the course of my hunting career.
PictureCourtesy: Robin Silver Photography


When you go out in the woods, just remember that you are out there as a predator. We buy camouflage for the same purpose as the lion hiding in the savannah grasses stalking its prey or the U.S. Army sniper concealed in plain sight. To stay hidden. The whole reason we buy camouflage is not to be apart of the so called “popular” group of the hunting world, but it is so we can hide from our prey. When you put on face paint or a face mask it should act as an extension of your camouflage. Animals are constantly watching for anything out of the ordinary when they are making their way slowly through the fields, marshes or woods. Whether it be the uniform color of our skin or the shine that our oily skin produces, our prey will see this as a potential threat.


So the next time you reach for your container of face paint or your face mask, stop and think about why you are really wearing it. There will always be a reason why items like these have been around for so long and finding out these reasons will help you become a better hunter year after year. This season go out in the field and ask yourself, “Am I wearing this to be cool? Or am I wearing this for the sole purpose of hiding from my prey?”



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Haastyle Hunting Tips & Tactics -  Aging Bucks on the Hoof            By Kip Adams, Quality Deer Management Association

10/31/2013

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Harvesting white-tailed bucks based on age is becoming an increasingly common management strategy. To implement this practice, hunters must have the ability to accurately age bucks on the hoof based on their body characteristics, an ability that most hunters considered impossible a decade ago. Today however, hunters across the whitetail’s range are estimating the age of bucks in the field as a means for selective harvest within Quality Deer Management programs or merely for the fun of it.

Like humans, whitetails possess distinct body characteristics by age class, and with a little practice hunters and nonhunters alike can become proficient at estimating the age of bucks on the hoof. There are many good reference books, videos and DVDs available for in-depth instruction and practice on aging bucks, and this article serves to introduce the topic and highlight the differences for each age class from fawns to post-mature animals. These body characteristics are subject to differing interpretation by different viewers, but the characteristics are relative to others in your area or region. Body characteristics also change by season. The breeding season is the best time of year to age bucks because of pronounced neck swelling and tarsal staining. You can estimate their age at other times of the year, but many characteristics are viewed relative to what they will (or did) look like during the rut.


Fawns
Fawns are easily distinguished from other age classes of bucks but are commonly misidentified as female deer. Buck fawns have small square bodies, small short heads and relatively large ears. Their heads are flatter between the ears rather than rounded like that of a doe. The distance from their ear to eye is also approximately the same as the distance from their eye to nose. In contrast, the distance from an adult doe’s ear to eye is much shorter than from its eye to nose. Fawns also have short necks, flatter bellies and backs, and less muscle definition than adult does. The Quality Deer Management Association (QDMA) has produced an educational poster, “Identifying Antlerless Deer,” that uses close-up photography of live deer to help you learn to sort fawns from adult does and buck fawns from doe fawns using these characteristics. This makes a great visual tool for teaching hunting-club members or guests how to avoid harvesting buck fawns.

1½ year
For most QDM programs, especially those in beginning stages, learning to identify yearling bucks is the most important aging skill. Yearling bucks have long legs, a thin neck, a slim body and an overall lanky appearance. Their legs appear too long for their bodies because their torsos (stomach, chest and neck) are not fully developed. Their antler spread is nearly always less than the width of their ears when their ears are in an alert position. They have a distinct line of separation between their neck and shoulders and little muscle definition. They have a thin waist, and they may have slight staining in their tarsal glands during the rut. Overall, a yearling buck can be said to look like a doe with antlers. In well-managed populations on high-quality-habitat, yearling bucks can have large bodies and even 10 or more antler points, but the above characteristics will be present and can be used to separate them from 2½-year-olds. This is why it is important to study body characteristics before considering antler size when attempting to age a buck in the field.

2½ year
Two-year-olds have legs that still appear too long for their bodies, and they still have an overall sleek appearance. They have developed some muscling in their shoulders and slight swelling in their neck during the rut, but their waist is still thin. Given adequate nutrition, their antler spread can be equal to or wider than their ears. Finally, they can have moderate staining in their tarsal glands during the rut, especially if few mature bucks are in the population.

3½ year
Three-year-olds have legs that appear to be the right length for their bodies because their torsos are now more fully developed. They have muscled shoulders and a highly swelled neck during the rut, but their waist is still lean. I liken three-year-olds to middle linebackers as they are big and strong but they’re also lean and fast. A deep chest and lean waist give them a “racehorse” appearance. Their antler spread can be even with or wider than their ears. Research shows that at this age, most bucks have achieved 50 to 75 percent of their antler-growth potential. They also have a lot of tarsal staining during the rut.

Beyond 3½ years of age, determining the exact age of a buck becomes more difficult because of increased variation among individual bucks. However, for most QDM programs, harvest goals can be achieved if hunters are able to confidently separate bucks into one of three groups: A) Yearlings, B) 2½-year-olds, and C) 3½ or older. Hunters who want to sort and select bucks based on ages older than 3½ can still do so, but more time spent studying each buck may be required. In addition to viewing in the field, use trail-camera photos and home-video footage to refine your estimates. Also, once a buck has been harvested, check your own field estimates against age estimates based on toothwear and/or cementum annuli ages from a reputable lab. This will help you hone your skills at aging the deer in your region or habitat type.

4½ year
Because their stomachs, chests and necks are now fully developed, most four-year-olds have legs that appear too short for their body. They have fully-muscled shoulders, heavy swelling in their neck during the rut, and their waist has dropped down to become even with their chest. Given adequate nutrition they’ll become structurally mature and can reach 75 to 90 percent of their antler growth potential. They also have a lot of tarsal staining and during the rut the stain may extend below the tarsal gland. Four-year-olds have an entirely different appearance than one- to three-year-old bucks.

5½ to 7½ year
Other than in select places, few free-ranging bucks exceed five years of age so I’ll combine five- to seven-year-olds. Bucks in this category have legs that appear too short for their body. They also have several other characteristics of four year olds including fully-muscled shoulders, heavy swelling in their neck during the rut, and a waist that’s even with their chest. However, they also may have a pot belly and a sagging back. Their increased body mass gives them a more rounded appearance, and they may look like a small cow. They will have achieved 90 to 100% of their antler growth potential, and they can have highly stained tarsal glands during the rut, with the stain extending well below the tarsal gland.

8½ and older
A few free-ranging bucks make it to the post-mature age category. These bucks have passed their prime and regress in both body and antler size. They generally have loose skin on their face, neck and shoulders – usually visible as a “chin flap” – and they may have pointed shoulder and hip bones. Their antlers can show age-related abnormalities such as abnormal points or wavy or curvy tines, and they have an overall “weathered” appearance.

As you study age-specific body characteristics you’ll notice there aren’t age-specific antler characteristics (other than the range of antler potential that may be reached at each age class, and this percentage can’t be accurately estimated by viewing the antlers). Therefore, I suggest you don’t rely solely on antler size when aging bucks. Large antlers on a younger deer and small antlers on an older deer can negatively influence your estimated age. I prefer to estimate age based solely on body characteristics with respect to location and time of year and then use antler size to “check” my estimate or to break a tie if I can’t decide between two ages.




For More Assistance; Quality Deer Management Association recommends the book “Observing and Evaluating Whitetails” by Dave Richards and Al Brothers, as well as the pocket field guide to aging bucks produced as a companion to this book.  Also, QDMA has produced an educational poster, “Estimating Buck Age,” that uses photos of live bucks of known ages to illustrate variations in body characteristics by age class. Again, this makes a great visual aid for educating hunters. All of these items are available in Quality Deer Management Association's online store, The Shed.



Aging bucks on the hoof is a lot of fun so whether you hunt them with a bow, sporting arm or camera, this information can make you a more knowledgeable whitetail enthusiast.




Article  Written By:  Kip Adams, Quality Deer Management Association, Jan. 25 2012

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Winter Scouting for Spring Gobblers

3/24/2013

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As spring slowly get closer, many of us turkey hunters are dreaming of getting into the spring woods to take down a big ol' boss tom.  However, just as deer hunters scout during the winter for their fall setups, turkey hunters also have an opportunity to prepare before the season arrives.


Just like any kind of scouting, it all starts with having the right items available and having a game plan set of where to start your scouting.  First item to have in your arsenal is a good pair of optics.  This will come in handy during those days driving around looking/"glassing" for birds.  The next item to have in your gear bag is a set of scouting cameras. We highly recommend you pick up a couple DLC Covert Scouting Cameras (www.covertscoutingcameras.com). Lastly, the most important thing to have with you is a little bit of time.  Scouting can be done prior to a hunt, but a prelonged scouting period will help locate multiple birds to hunt during your particular season.

 To begin scouting, what we tend to do around the end of February to beginning of March is begin looking at different maps (ie. Google Earth, Aerial Maps, etc.).  From there I begin to look for areas with a nice south facing slope (especially if an early season tag is drawn) or for secluded fields.  Birds will be drawn to the southern slopes due to the fields being more green and also easier for a boss tom to display himself in the sun.  As for the secluded fields, a sense of protection is part of this game plan in a turkeys point of view.  Next, if minimal moisture is around, start looking for bare areas where turkeys can dust themselves.  This is needed to keep their feathers free of excess oils and flaked off skin.  Lastly, having a good food source will always be a great thing to have on your side, whether it is a food plot, cut soybean field, or chopped corn field. A turkey needs to eat right!?!?!

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Now getting down to the more physical part of scouting.  Time to get off your couch, turn off the sportsman's channel, and hit the woods.  Now that you have begun your in depth scouting, these are the things you should be looking for.  Roosting trees (turkey droppings and feathers will be very prevalent around these trees), dusting "bowls", scratch areas (turned up leaves, scratch marks in dirt), and finally the most obvious is turkey tracks.  There is no real science to this part.  If you find two  or more of these items, you are most likely in a frequented turkey area.  One thing that I personally do not get too excited about, is when I stumble upon a feather or two.   Sure, this means that a turkey was in the near vicinity, but it may have even fallen off a turkey during fly down out of the roost. 

Well that does it for your quick tutorial on turkey scouting. Turkeys may not have the brain that a majestic whitetail does, but having your homework done prior to hunting will definitely increase your chances in harvesting a big boss gobbler.  Good luck scouting and hunting for a big longbeard this upcoming spring..  If you have more questions regarding your upcoming turkey hunt, please drop us an email. We will be glad to answer them!

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