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EHD Issues & Aquatic Solutions

8/3/2016

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EHD Issues and Aquatic Solutions
Every year hunters, deer enthusiasts, and deer farmers all worry about a well known disease that may or may not impact their deer herd. This disease we are talking about, is none other than Epizootic hemorrhagic disease or as most know it, EHD. Many have heard the abbreviation going around the hunting community, and the same individuals may not know the root of the causes or possible solutions that are out there. Most individuals simply sit back, and hope that this severe disease doesn't hit there herd. Well with a strong background in aquatics as well as deer biology a solution may be out there to help us sleep a little bit better at night.

History of EHD
To really know how to cure EHD we must first know the history of it. EHD was first reported in 1955 in New Jersey, where 700 whitetails succumbed to the disease. The disease was once again reported in Alberta in 1962, where another 440 whitetails, 18 mule deer, and 13 pronghorn died. Fourteen years later in 1976 another large epidemic outbreak occurred where thousands of whitetails died from EHD in Nebraska, Wyoming, Kansas, New Jersey, and the Dakotas, and 4000 antelope died in Wyoming. (Matschke, G.H., Trainer, D.O., et. al. "Population Influences" chapter, p. 174, in White-tailed Deer: Ecology and Management, Edited by Lowell K. Halls, Stackpole Books, 1984, ISBN 0-8117-0486-6). Though these outbreaks may seem very dated to you, the most recent severe cases were in the years 2007 and 2012 according to the QDMA'S annual whitetail report. In 2007 the Southeastern Cooperative Wildlife Disease Study (SCWDS) reports indicated 65,000+ whitetails died of this disease in a total of 31 states. Only a short five (5) years later in 2012 the herd was once again impacted in a total of 30 states with a total of 14,032 wild deer reported dead from EHD in Michigan alone! You may find yourself asking yourself, what is causing EHD to be so terrible some years and not so bad the next. Well we must now take a turn from the tragic consequences to what is the root of this evil.

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​This root of evil we speak of is a tiny little flying bug belonging to the genusCulicoides. These small midges pack a punch when they bite, and the reports certainly prove it. The main species of this genus causing most of these issues is Culicoides sonorensis; in which Ed Schmidtmann, a researcher with the Arthropod-Borne Animal Diseases Research Unit, part of the USDA Agricultural Research Service researched very closely (Thomas, Lindsay, Jr. "Can We Prevent EHD?" Web blog post. Quality Deer Management Association. N.p., 30 Mar. 2013. Web). As indicated in Lindsay's article published on the QDMA's website, this genus of insects has one flaw that overlaps with the expertise of an aquatic biologist. This overlap is that of water quality. Culicoides particularly loves shallow, warm, organic rich, and salty bodies of water. What does this scenario remind you of the most? How about that of that shallow "wildlife pond" that you see many of your deer drinking in or maybe that nasty cattle pond that deer come to grab a dawn or dusk drink from.

​Now you may be asking yourself, "Well why does the midge love this environment?". Well the answer is quite simple. Unlike beneficial aquatic invertebrates (both macro and micro) which typically are a sign of great water quality, the midge carrying EHD is not one for competition. When a water source's quality; whether a cattle trough, mud hole, wildlife pond, etcetera, degrades many of these beneficial invertebrates cannot survive in the new conditions thus reducing competition. With this new, unhealthy environment present the midge thrives, and lays eggs like a mad person. They prefer salty conditions as well, as they have a high tolerance for this conditions unlike its invertebrate and insect friends who typically have a very small tolerance for salty conditions. You may be asking yourself why is salt going into these water sources. Two words; Mineral Supplements. Not that mineral substances are bad, but having a salt block or mineral lick leaching into a pond can kill beneficial organisms which in turn will make a perfect habitat for 
Culicoides. A poorly managed water body builds the perfect homestead for the midge and for an increase in EHD potential. This is why water resource management is key to helping reduce this drastic disease.

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​Water Resource and Pond Management
Given that we have narrowed down the perfect spot for these nasty little midge flies, we can now put a water resource management perspective on this ongoing, annual epidemic. As Ed Schimdtmann noted in his previous teaching, Culicoides is a creature that thrives in degraded water resources. The limnological term this is referring to is eutrophication. A eutrophic water body is one that is high in nutrients (phosphorus, nitrogen), high in organics, and full of vegetation (more common in a pond or lake environment). Professional pond and lake managers deal with water bodies on a daily basis that exhibit these three items, and in some cases at frightening amounts. 

However, dealing with water bodies such as these, we can put the same aquatic biology and management directly towards that of our deer herds. For the past few years I have directly researched and studied water quality throughout many water systems across the state of Wisconsin. The underlying issue for most of these waterbodies is the natural process of any lake, pond, and/or reservoir wanting to fill itself in. This is all part of the eutrohpication cycle. As the water body ages; sediments, organics, and overall biomass collect in the basin which over time will decrease the water volume, and increase the nutrient richness of the water body. Many may think that once a water body's health is degraded that the only solution is to dredge or clean out, but many management tools exist to turn around that watering hole on your property.

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The process of turning around an unhealthy pond begins with ensuring that there is a balance in the water. This balance is created with the correct abundance and combination of beneficial aquatic plants, benthic and columnized bacterium, and water conditions that are within water quality standards. The tools to create this balance are a concept that is easy to grasp once broken apart. To begin creating this so called "balance" in the water we must take a deeper look each specific part of what creates the balance. 

Aquatic Plants

One of the greatest systems in the world for creating a healthy water environment is that of a wetland. As described by the Environmental Protection Agency (E.P.A.); "Wetlands are part of the foundation of our nation's water resources and are vital to the health of waterways and communities that are downstream. Wetlands feed downstream waters, trap floodwaters, recharge groundwater supplies, remove pollution, and provide fish and wildlife habitat". Pond and lake biologists across the nation understand the strong correlation between aquatic plants and the water body they surround. These plants draw their nutrients not only from the ground, but also from the water source that they grow within. ​

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As stated in the E.P.A.'s wetland definition, a wetland removes pollution. You may ask yourself, "Well how is a wetland removing pollution?". The answer to this question is quite simple based on limnology and the study of aquatic vascular plants. As organics, suspended solids, heavy metals, and general nutrients enter a water body they essentially fill the area much like food dye does when put in a glass of water. As these nutrients move around plants readily take up the nutrients to help grow, thus removing them from the water. Plants throughout the entire growing season will continually uptake these nutrients, organics, and suspended solids until they blossom, seed out, and decompose at the tail end of the growing season. In summary you can think of an aquatic plant kind of like a bank. To begin your year you put money into the bank where it is kept safe and away from being given to anything outside, but once you are ready to release that money at the end of the time frame it is once again in the open where it can be used by other sources. ​

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The basics of why plants in a water scenario is one thing, but now knowing what plants to install around and/or in your pond is the next step. Many native species currently grow in the continental U.S., but there are also a lot of invasive and/or exotic species that many may think will benefit them. There are two plants that I consider to be the cream of the crop.
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The first plant is one we are all very familiar with, and that is the native broadleaf cattail (Typha latifolia). The cattail in many states is the base of the wetland, and when it comes to uptaking nutrients and pollutants from a water body there is no plant that does it better. One thing to know is that there is another cattail species that can be misidentified as being the broadleaf cattail, and that is the native narrow leaved cattail (Typha angustifolia). This species is much more aggressive, and tends to overtake systems, whereas the broadleaf cattail is a less aggressive and more stable plant due to its sheath/leaf size. Regardless of which cattail does come into your water source they are both a great form of cover and shelter for whitetail deer, turkeys, and waterfowl. Just as a native prairie helps to protect these species, so does a stand of thick cattails. You probably have seen the hunting videos where they are sitting over a barren pond with no vegetation. Certainly deer come to these to drink, but just imagine if now they had a way to go into this water area, and also have a sense of security. Now you have not only a plant helping clarify and improve water quality conditions to prevent EHD, but also providing a better setup for your hunting in the fall.

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​The second plant I speak of has two advantages to any water system. The first is the  same as the broadleaf cattail as it uptakes a great amount of nutrients thus improving water quality conditions and reducing EHD risk. The second advantage of this plant is that it is a preferred food source for whitetail deer. The plant I speak of is none other than the aquatic vascular plant, broadleaf arrowhead (Sagittaria latifolia) or also known as duck potato. Arrowhead is a great indicator of how nutrient rich a water body is. In many aquatic systems across the states of Wisconsin and Illinois we have seen arrowhead growing. Some systems exhibit small plants of only 12-16 inches, whereas others I have seen grow up to four (4) feet tall. The height is strongly dependent on the water body's nutrient level. The more nutrients available, the larger the plant gets. Now obviously the larger the plant the more tonnage available for the deer to consume. On many of my clients properties I have specifically planted these plants around ponds for added nutrient uptake, but just to find that the deer have been eating them almost daily according to the landowners. Deer love these plants for their tender shoots, tubers, and seed heads. The best name to give these plants instead of duck potato would be the aquatic food plot. 

A combination of these species as well as other native, beneficial, and aquatic vascular plants will help to keep nutrients levels down, water quality parameters in check, improve cover around your water holes, and provide a source of nutrition. Now that the plants are settled we must take that microscope and dive deeper and smaller to see the next part of the EHD reduction equation.

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Beneficial Bacteria and Enzymatic Processes
 You may ask yourself, "What does bacteria do to keep my deer from getting EHD?". The answer is quite simple. The aquatic midge fly (Culicoides) thrives in aquatic ecosystems that are unhealthy due to the limited competetion with other insects and invertebrates. The correlation simply goes the the fact that in high drought years ponds are typically in high demand but in low supply. The decrease in water depth, increase in heat, and increase in deer herd activity in these pools dramatically decreases the overall water quality. These waters tend to have planktonic algal blooms, high turbidity, and lack of beneficial invertebrates and/or bacteria making a perfect breeding center for Culicoides.

When the aquatic ecosystem is in a sense "damaged" you must start from the beginning to regain the water quality and clarity of the system. A process that is overlooked in most aquatic ecosystems is down at the microscopic level. When taking care of an animal that is higher in the food chain, you must also make sure that all is taken care of at the first part of the food chain being the microbial bacteria. Beneficial bacteria and enzymes occur in all parts of the animal kingdom and are needed to ensure that life goes on as we know it. This is especially key when speaking of an aquatic ecosystem. Life in a pond, lake, or river begins at the water and sediment interface at the bottom of the water body. At this interface we observe many different species of bacteria working on nitrification, denitrification, ammonification, oxidation, reduction, and the list goes on and on. Maintaining a healthy bacteria community will help ensure that the water quality is maintained.

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​Bacteria are work machines when it comes to maintaining an aquatic ecosystem. However, they need to be set up to succeed. The way that this is done is by the addition of water quality enzymes. Enzymes are simply a catalyst that increases the speed of a biological process. The human body has many enzymes to help get us through our daily activities. What enzymes do in an aquatic ecosystem is help in the decomposition of organic materials. The organic materials that reside in these systems may be dead organisms, leaves, feces, or even decyaing algae. The enzymes target these organics and begin breaking them down in simple sugars such as fructose, glocse, and sucrose. These simple sugars are what the beneficial bacteria need to thrive, reproduce, and grow. The more sugars present in the ecosystems the harder and more efficient the bacteria will work.

What will the bacteria be working on? Organics! The bacteria will begin to remediate the organics by converting these once unhealthy substances into a combination of oxygen (O2), carbon dioxide (CO2), and water (H20) thus eliminating the potentially harmful organics from the ecosystem. With these organics being remediated out of the environment the main breeding and living space of the midge is slowly removed. The aquatic midge (Culicoides) prefers a high organic rich environment which you may know as "muck" in a waterbody. If you can remove the preferred breeding area, you can reduce the population potential that the midge could achieve. With a decreased population threshold you will also improve the possiblity of making an environment that encourages beneficial invertebrates (both macro and micro) and aquatic insects making this improved water body their living area. With the right ingredients added (bacteria and enzymes) the sky is the limit with increasing the water quality of your water sources, and increasing the competition that the midge fly will have.

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​Proper Pond Design & Synthetic Liner Installation
Most deer breeders and hunters alike typically think that all you need to make a watering hole for their animals is an excavator and an area to dig a hole in the ground. However, this is not the case when creating a healthy water source. The aquatic midge thrives in water sources that are shallow, have a degraded water quality, and have a soft and organic bank to breed in and around. The main rule of thumb when creating a pond, lake, or water source is that the more water you have the easier it is to manage. Why you ask? The simple answer is that when a water body increases in size and depth the heating and cooling potential dramatically decreases.

The easy way to think about temperature of water compared to water body size is of a swimming pool. As summer progresses along you may begin thinking that the weather is nice and warm so it should be time for a swim. However, as you jump into that pool in May you get shocked with a very cool sensation rushing over to you as the water has not heated up to the same temperatue as the air around you. Now on the flip side you may go on that same day and play in a puddle which may be exhibiting equal if not higher temperatures than that of the air. Making sure to keep the comparison of water temperature  to water body size and depth will help you realize why those shallow puddles you may have created could be a midge fly threshold.

A properly designed water hole/wildlife pond should have steep slopes, but keeping in mind that a deer should still be able to walk in and out of the pond rather easily to avoid stress on the animal. A 3 to 1 slope is typically a safe bet to not only give the deer an easy access in and out of the pond, but also be able to establish beneficial aquatic plants. In addition to the slope making sure the pond reaches a proper depth is very important. To help with management of the pond a depth of 4+ feet should be achieved. This would make the pond 24 feet in diameter. To increase the depth you will either have to make a larger diameter pond or increase your end slope in areas of the pond. In summary the deeper and more steep you make the pond the easier it is to manage.

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Now that you understand the design of the pond you must now look at how the pond will hold water, and how to reduce the amount of muck/soil that the midge can breed in. In many areas across the Midwest it can be hard to find a spring to maintain your water level. In those cases a synthetic liner can be your savior. Not only will the synthetic liner help maintain water, but it will also eliminate the loose muck/sediment that the midge needs to breed and reproduce. Typically a material that is 24 mil or greater is sufficient in holding water meanwhile being strong enough to prevent rips/tears from deer hooves. Furthermore, unlike the typical bentonite clay that people have used to hold water in their ponds/waterholes, the synthetic liner does not leak as easy, and leaks are much easier to locate and repair. 

The Catch-22 to this idea is that having a full functioning ecosystem is still key in maintaining superior water quality. To achieve this goal a layer of sand is recommended to be placed on top of the liner. This will help become the planting substrate for your beneficial aquatic plants. The sand will also help to cushion the liner and create a substance in which wildlife can walk freely on with reduced or non-existent slipping. The last item the sand will help with is in prevention of UV rays hitting the liner which would breakdown the plastic of the liner. 

Putting Together the Whole Idea
Water resource management for prevention of EHD is not a single concept, but rather a collection of different strategies. Treating your water source more like a living breathing organism rather than just a hole in the ground will help you gain more control of your management plan and the ecosystem as a whole. With whitetails, elk, mulies, pronghorn, and many other animals being the passion of so many we must do what we can to help battle EHD in our herds. If you take the time this season to manage your current water holes and design your new watering holes according the the information provided here you can help increase your effectiveness as a conservationist and land manager.  

For more information regarding managing the water bodies on your property or installing a new one, please email info@creekbottomlandmgmt.com or visit our pond and lake management partner Wisconsin Lake & Pond Resource's website at  www.WisconsinLPR.com.​

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Monster Raxx Food Plot Weekly Update

9/23/2014

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Well looks as we are a tad behind on our updates. Below are the Week 5, 6, and 7 updates (6 and 7 on same video). Watch below to see the change in these plots during this three (3) week time period. Some hilarity, tips, and general knowledge is the basis of these past couple of updates. We also would like to inform you that the updates will be becoming more sporadic as the Haastyle crew is in full swing for the 2014 hunting season. As major changes occur we will give you some food plot updates.

Week 5 Update

Haastyle Hunting Weekly Food Plot Update Week 5 from Haastyle Hunting on Vimeo.

WEEK 6-7 uPDATE

Haastyle Hunting Weekly Food Plot Update Week 6-7 from Haastyle Hunting on Vimeo.

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Monster Raxx Weekly Update: Week 4

9/1/2014

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Mother Nature is following the script which has made for another great weekly update! Fertilizer is doing its job, and the deer are already enjoying all of the food plots. Some great tips in this weeks update from our co-host Zach. Check it out below!

Monster Raxx Weekly Update Week 4 from Haastyle Hunting on Vimeo.

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Weekly Food Plot UPdate: Week 3

8/26/2014

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This week Zach finds that his four food plots are finally following the game plan, and growing like CRAZY! Raxx Factor is the Pine Plot especially has taken the ground by storm as you could say. Large plants, and some great tips in this weeks update!

Monster Raxx Weekly Update Week 3 from Haastyle Hunting on Vimeo.

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Weekly Food Plot Update: Week 2

8/18/2014

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This week our co-host Zach goes over some positives and negatives that can be observed in the first couple weeks of growing your food plot. Many individuals think it is as easy as just throwing seed on some dirt, and working the ground with their fourwheeler or tractor. One word for that thought........ WRONG!

Monster Raxx Weekly Update Week 2 from Haastyle Hunting on Vimeo.

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Weekly Food Plot Update: Week 1

8/13/2014

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Monster Raxx Weekly Update Week 1 from Haastyle Hunting on Vimeo.

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Haastyle Tips & Lethal Tactics: Maxx Your Raxx This Spring

2/26/2014

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With spring quickly approaching, we must switch our main focus from looking for last years antlers to growing this upcoming years antlers! We all must realize that our deer herds have just gone through a long drawn out winter full of harsh conditions and lack of mineral/nutrient intake. This mineral deficiency can have a negative impact on your number one hitlister or up-and-comer bucks. If these bucks need to focus on keeping their body healthy due to a mineral deficiency, the antlers are the first to go. This same biological process is seen in fish as they age or have a low nutrient diet. When age and/or nutrient reduction are seen, the body processes focus on motor function instead of overall growth. 

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This spring your deer are going to be searching for the minerals and nutrients they have lost since the previous year's rut. The bucks have been impacted the most due to an intense rut and harsh winter.  Most individuals wait to start their mineral sites when antlers have already begun growing, and have developed 25% or more of their total growth. This is a BIG mistake! 


Your deer are going to need mineral and nutrients prior to growing their antlers if they are going to achieve an optimal growth level. In order to get them to this point, mineral sites should be maintained throughout the winter (minimal amounts typically needed) all the way through spring and the following hunting season. As winter begins to subside and spring shows its face, you will want to increase how much mineral you are putting out. These areas are going to be deer beacons as your herd will be wanting to obtain their essential nutrients/minerals needed for growth.  Getting a kick start to the antler growing season will boost your bucks' antler potential.

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Not only will your bucks benefit from having additional mineral available, but so will the does of your herd. Remember, without does there will be no bucks for the future. A healthy doe will produce healthy fawns, it's as simple as that. Keeping your does healthy with a source of mineral, especially the minerals/nutrients in the Monster Raxx blend, will help maintain a healthy deer herd all the way from your biggest buck down to the smallest fawn. 


So now that you know the importance of placing mineral all season long, the other mistake that you must not fall into is just buying any mineral off the shelf. Most minerals on the market are super high in sodium (salt). This mineral may be great for bringing deer into your DLC Covert Scouting Camera locations, but it is doing minimal for the health of your deer herd. Sodium is needed for normal blood flow as it interchanges with potassium in the blood stream. However, not a lot of sodium is needed for this process to work properly. The important minerals (as seen on Monster Raxx's ingredient label above) are calcium and phosphorus. Calcium and phosphorus comprise of 35% of the total antler growth (Minerals for Whitetails by Brian Murphy QDMA). Now it is not a matter of minerals directly making antlers bigger, but it is that having a proper inflow of these minerals will make your deer herd healthier, thus allowing these bucks to focus on antler growth and less on body maintenance.


This spring make sure not to miss this VERY important step of mineral placement. Remember this simple statement, "A healthy herd, is a trophy herd".


Order your Monster Raxx mineral TODAY at www.monsterraxx.com!

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Haastyle Tips & Lethal Tactics: The Addiction That Is Shed Hunting

2/12/2014

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Every year the same old ballgame is played. We scout deer all summer watching antler growth, pursue these bucks come the fall, and to end another season we hope to find the antlers we had looked for all hunting season. 


In the last several years, shed hunting as grown exponentially! All kinds of individuals are hitting up the fields, woods, and, marshes more and more every year to find these spectacular gifts left behind by our four legged friends. From outdoor personalities down to a small child, people are beginning to obtain the addiction known as shed hunting. However, many of these individuals new to the shed hunting world are having a tough time finding antlers. The simple statement would be that as you find more and more antlers, the easier it gets. This simple statement works great, but how do you go about finding those first couple of sheds? A series of tips to help you find more antlers this spring is exactly what this article was intended for.

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1. Scouting for Sheds
Just like our summer and fall scouting we go through every season to find our hitlist bucks, we must also scout for areas where bucks may potentially shed.  Deer are similar to humans by how they fall into habits. We see this habits during all seasons of the year. 


Based on bedding, food sources, moon phases, and time of year, deer change these habits to adjust to what nature has given them.  During the winter months deer change their rutting or fall habits into a food foraging habit. Bucks have just gotten through pushing their bodies to the maximum in search of a hot doe. Now it is time for these same bucks to find protein and sugar rich foods to restore vital nutrients they had lost during the rut. Find the corridors, and you have a great chance of finding sheds.

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2.  Low Pressure Areas
For most hunters this tip easily makes sense. If you go in the areas you don't pressure/hunt, you will find more deer sign. Right? Correct!  This same idea applies for shed hunting. Find the areas that are not pressured through hunting, or regularly traveled in, and you will find more deer sign, and most likely more deer sheds. Public land can be the toughest place, due to the high amount of human activity and hunting that takes place. However, find the sanctuaries where most individuals don't go into, and your success rate will rise. This applies to you private guys and gals as well. Go into the areas that you or your hunting group has deemed as a "sanctuary" to raise your shed hunting sucess.

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3. Food Sources
When I first began shed hunting, the idea of food sources was the first tip I grasped. It was obvious. If you go where the bucks are feeding, you're chances of finding a shed will increase.  During the winter months, deer can spend countless hours in food sources trying to obtain the nutrients, fats, and sugars they need to survive.  

These food sources can come in the form of corn fields, soybean fields, turnip plots, or even the lonely hay bale on top of the hill. However, don't forget to search for the browsing areas of your deer herd. My shed hunting group and I have found numerous sheds around these browsing areas. Think about it, when a buck reaches up to nibble a leaf bud there is a good possibility his antlers will hit branches. POP! Off goes his antlers. So this shed hunting season make sure to make inventory of all of your feeding locations (fields and browse).

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4. Deer Beds
Deer spend a large amount of time during the winter in their beds. This is to simply help conserve energy, and keep warm. Think about it, do you get cold faster walking around in the woods or when you are nestled up in a wool blanket hunting? When you are sitting their your built up calories and added blanket are keeping you warm. The same principle applies to deer. Deer tend to bed in thick cover to block themselves from wind, snow, sleet, rain..you name it. Find these consolidated bedding areas to increase your shed hunting experience.

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5. Southern Facing Hills
A south facing hill goes hand in hand with locating deer beds. Deer tend to bed and/or perform their daily activities on south facing hillsides. This is due to the overall heat exchange they can receive from the sun position. Typically these hillsides will turn up 10 times the sheds than a north facing hillside would. The same goes for fields. If you have two corn fields, one on the north side of a hill, and one on the south side, the deer will generally feed in the southern field. When you find your food sources and bedding areas, and they are on a south facing hill, you just doubled your chances of scoring a shed.

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6. Fence Crossings
When a buck is getting close to shed his antlers, a jostle can sometimes accelerate the shed from popping off. As Craig Dougherty wrote in his article "Why Bucks Shed Their Antlers" , the whole reason behind this is due to a drop in testosterone levels which triggers specialized cells called osteoclasts to activate. Osteoclasts eat away at the bone at the base of an antler and allows the antler to be cast, otherwise known as shed. So just as Craig put it, a buck realistically at any time could be ready to shed. This is why fence crossing are so important. When a buck jumps these fences or even ditches for that matter, the osteocalsts could be already have separated most of the antler form the base, and this quick jostle could pop the antler off. So this spring, go to your major fence crossings, ditches, creek bottoms, etc. and look close for some potential sheds or maybe even some matched sets.

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7. Take Your Time
As we all know, shed hunting is an exciting and exhilarating time outdoors. This same excitement however tends to make us rush when shed hunting. We generally will skim over everything just to find that big seventy inch five point side. However, this is a BIG mistake. Sheds are easily overlooked due to their color blending in so well to the surroundings. Others may just be sheds from years prior that have accumulated weeds and grasses on top of them over time as seen in the photo to the right.


When you are walking, walk slowly and let your eyes search everywhere leave, stick, and cornstalk to ensure it is not a shed. Also, try walking with the sun at your back to help your eyes adjust easier. Another tip is to walk when the clouds are overcasted. You will be amazed how much a shed antler pops out when the sun isn't beating on it. Last but not least, focus on the ground directly in front of you and around you regardless if it is sunny or not. Searching ahead can be a big mistake if you are looking to expand your shed collection. 


When you go into the field this spring looking for shed antlers, keep these tips in mind to help you become a better shed hunter. Also remember that doing research prior to the season is a must if you are going to increase the sheds on your mantle. Take your time, have fun, and good luck this shed hunting season!



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Haastyle Tips & Lethal Tactics - Face Paint: For Purpose or Flash?

1/29/2014

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Since the day that I first stepped in the woods to pursue whitetail and turkeys, I have been using face paint.  However, the concept of putting greasy, colored ink on your face has been, for the most part, lost in today's outdoor industry.  Many television shows display paint on their face for function, but also to look "cool" to their viewers.  I am here to educate the individuals that have followed in these footsteps about the real purpose of face paint, and to show that that design you are putting on your face should only be used to help you become hidden to your game.

The notion of putting “paint” on a hunter’s face did not originate in the outdoor industry. The method of marking your face with paint actually came from our early ancestors.  Our ancestors used natural elements such as mud, juice from berries, and general plant tissues to help camouflage themselves from their prey. The use of these items aids in breaking up the solid pattern of our unique faces amongst the foliage, as well as removes the glare that our naturally oily skins produce on sunny days.


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As the hunting industry has grown in popularity, I have noticed a significant change in the reasoning behind the use of face paint. This change has evolved over the years from zero face coverage to the use of face masks, to the present day where we see face paint as being the primary face concealment tool in the field. This is amazing, given that I have only been hunting for 16 + years, and have seen such a drastic change. Unfortunately, the translation has been lost for many hunters as to why we make black, green and brown streaks on our faces while hunting. Unlike our early ancestors or even most of our hunting mentors, we are beginning to forget some of the “basics.” Much of this can be attributed to the popularity of hunting television, and the tactics used to broaden the brands of these shows. young hunters look up to them as examples of how to be better hunters in the woods, and sadly the use of face paint is widely looked at as a flaunting tool rather than a valuable hunting tool.

I remember getting my first bow at the age of eleven, and having my dad tell me to go shoot while wearing the gear that I would be hunting in. This concept was an eye-opener for a young hunter like myself. Through practice I learned that a face mask got in the way of my anchor point while practicing. The extra fabric between the corner of my mouth and the string of my bow was enough to reduce my accuracy. Because of this simple discovery , my dad got me my first container of face paint. Having just paint on my face not only helped to break up the solid peach color of my face, but it also helped me maintain a high level of accuracy when out in the field. As I have grown and learned more about both hunting and the hunting industry, I too have fallen for this misinformed perception of face paint at times. It was only through research and my own observations that I have realized the true purpose and potential of face paint over the course of my hunting career.
PictureCourtesy: Robin Silver Photography


When you go out in the woods, just remember that you are out there as a predator. We buy camouflage for the same purpose as the lion hiding in the savannah grasses stalking its prey or the U.S. Army sniper concealed in plain sight. To stay hidden. The whole reason we buy camouflage is not to be apart of the so called “popular” group of the hunting world, but it is so we can hide from our prey. When you put on face paint or a face mask it should act as an extension of your camouflage. Animals are constantly watching for anything out of the ordinary when they are making their way slowly through the fields, marshes or woods. Whether it be the uniform color of our skin or the shine that our oily skin produces, our prey will see this as a potential threat.


So the next time you reach for your container of face paint or your face mask, stop and think about why you are really wearing it. There will always be a reason why items like these have been around for so long and finding out these reasons will help you become a better hunter year after year. This season go out in the field and ask yourself, “Am I wearing this to be cool? Or am I wearing this for the sole purpose of hiding from my prey?”



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Haastyle Hunting Tips & Tactics -  Aging Bucks on the Hoof            By Kip Adams, Quality Deer Management Association

10/31/2013

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Harvesting white-tailed bucks based on age is becoming an increasingly common management strategy. To implement this practice, hunters must have the ability to accurately age bucks on the hoof based on their body characteristics, an ability that most hunters considered impossible a decade ago. Today however, hunters across the whitetail’s range are estimating the age of bucks in the field as a means for selective harvest within Quality Deer Management programs or merely for the fun of it.

Like humans, whitetails possess distinct body characteristics by age class, and with a little practice hunters and nonhunters alike can become proficient at estimating the age of bucks on the hoof. There are many good reference books, videos and DVDs available for in-depth instruction and practice on aging bucks, and this article serves to introduce the topic and highlight the differences for each age class from fawns to post-mature animals. These body characteristics are subject to differing interpretation by different viewers, but the characteristics are relative to others in your area or region. Body characteristics also change by season. The breeding season is the best time of year to age bucks because of pronounced neck swelling and tarsal staining. You can estimate their age at other times of the year, but many characteristics are viewed relative to what they will (or did) look like during the rut.


Fawns
Fawns are easily distinguished from other age classes of bucks but are commonly misidentified as female deer. Buck fawns have small square bodies, small short heads and relatively large ears. Their heads are flatter between the ears rather than rounded like that of a doe. The distance from their ear to eye is also approximately the same as the distance from their eye to nose. In contrast, the distance from an adult doe’s ear to eye is much shorter than from its eye to nose. Fawns also have short necks, flatter bellies and backs, and less muscle definition than adult does. The Quality Deer Management Association (QDMA) has produced an educational poster, “Identifying Antlerless Deer,” that uses close-up photography of live deer to help you learn to sort fawns from adult does and buck fawns from doe fawns using these characteristics. This makes a great visual tool for teaching hunting-club members or guests how to avoid harvesting buck fawns.

1½ year
For most QDM programs, especially those in beginning stages, learning to identify yearling bucks is the most important aging skill. Yearling bucks have long legs, a thin neck, a slim body and an overall lanky appearance. Their legs appear too long for their bodies because their torsos (stomach, chest and neck) are not fully developed. Their antler spread is nearly always less than the width of their ears when their ears are in an alert position. They have a distinct line of separation between their neck and shoulders and little muscle definition. They have a thin waist, and they may have slight staining in their tarsal glands during the rut. Overall, a yearling buck can be said to look like a doe with antlers. In well-managed populations on high-quality-habitat, yearling bucks can have large bodies and even 10 or more antler points, but the above characteristics will be present and can be used to separate them from 2½-year-olds. This is why it is important to study body characteristics before considering antler size when attempting to age a buck in the field.

2½ year
Two-year-olds have legs that still appear too long for their bodies, and they still have an overall sleek appearance. They have developed some muscling in their shoulders and slight swelling in their neck during the rut, but their waist is still thin. Given adequate nutrition, their antler spread can be equal to or wider than their ears. Finally, they can have moderate staining in their tarsal glands during the rut, especially if few mature bucks are in the population.

3½ year
Three-year-olds have legs that appear to be the right length for their bodies because their torsos are now more fully developed. They have muscled shoulders and a highly swelled neck during the rut, but their waist is still lean. I liken three-year-olds to middle linebackers as they are big and strong but they’re also lean and fast. A deep chest and lean waist give them a “racehorse” appearance. Their antler spread can be even with or wider than their ears. Research shows that at this age, most bucks have achieved 50 to 75 percent of their antler-growth potential. They also have a lot of tarsal staining during the rut.

Beyond 3½ years of age, determining the exact age of a buck becomes more difficult because of increased variation among individual bucks. However, for most QDM programs, harvest goals can be achieved if hunters are able to confidently separate bucks into one of three groups: A) Yearlings, B) 2½-year-olds, and C) 3½ or older. Hunters who want to sort and select bucks based on ages older than 3½ can still do so, but more time spent studying each buck may be required. In addition to viewing in the field, use trail-camera photos and home-video footage to refine your estimates. Also, once a buck has been harvested, check your own field estimates against age estimates based on toothwear and/or cementum annuli ages from a reputable lab. This will help you hone your skills at aging the deer in your region or habitat type.

4½ year
Because their stomachs, chests and necks are now fully developed, most four-year-olds have legs that appear too short for their body. They have fully-muscled shoulders, heavy swelling in their neck during the rut, and their waist has dropped down to become even with their chest. Given adequate nutrition they’ll become structurally mature and can reach 75 to 90 percent of their antler growth potential. They also have a lot of tarsal staining and during the rut the stain may extend below the tarsal gland. Four-year-olds have an entirely different appearance than one- to three-year-old bucks.

5½ to 7½ year
Other than in select places, few free-ranging bucks exceed five years of age so I’ll combine five- to seven-year-olds. Bucks in this category have legs that appear too short for their body. They also have several other characteristics of four year olds including fully-muscled shoulders, heavy swelling in their neck during the rut, and a waist that’s even with their chest. However, they also may have a pot belly and a sagging back. Their increased body mass gives them a more rounded appearance, and they may look like a small cow. They will have achieved 90 to 100% of their antler growth potential, and they can have highly stained tarsal glands during the rut, with the stain extending well below the tarsal gland.

8½ and older
A few free-ranging bucks make it to the post-mature age category. These bucks have passed their prime and regress in both body and antler size. They generally have loose skin on their face, neck and shoulders – usually visible as a “chin flap” – and they may have pointed shoulder and hip bones. Their antlers can show age-related abnormalities such as abnormal points or wavy or curvy tines, and they have an overall “weathered” appearance.

As you study age-specific body characteristics you’ll notice there aren’t age-specific antler characteristics (other than the range of antler potential that may be reached at each age class, and this percentage can’t be accurately estimated by viewing the antlers). Therefore, I suggest you don’t rely solely on antler size when aging bucks. Large antlers on a younger deer and small antlers on an older deer can negatively influence your estimated age. I prefer to estimate age based solely on body characteristics with respect to location and time of year and then use antler size to “check” my estimate or to break a tie if I can’t decide between two ages.




For More Assistance; Quality Deer Management Association recommends the book “Observing and Evaluating Whitetails” by Dave Richards and Al Brothers, as well as the pocket field guide to aging bucks produced as a companion to this book.  Also, QDMA has produced an educational poster, “Estimating Buck Age,” that uses photos of live bucks of known ages to illustrate variations in body characteristics by age class. Again, this makes a great visual aid for educating hunters. All of these items are available in Quality Deer Management Association's online store, The Shed.



Aging bucks on the hoof is a lot of fun so whether you hunt them with a bow, sporting arm or camera, this information can make you a more knowledgeable whitetail enthusiast.




Article  Written By:  Kip Adams, Quality Deer Management Association, Jan. 25 2012

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